Installing Raymarine RV-320 sonar transducers and attaching anodes

July 24, 2019

hey there then gasps here today's video is about installing the Raymarine sonar transducers putting the anodes on the boat and is proudly sponsored by marine engine comm all right this box contains the real vision Raymarine transducers that I need for this boat here they are I've gone the plastic ones they come in different materials they've because it's a steel hull I've got the plastic so it's not a dissimilar metal problem modern plastics they are incredibly strong unfortunately cheap plastic keeps good plastic a bad name these are certainly not made out of cheap plastic I like these transducers a lot of thoughts gone into them obviously really well marked this ways forward it's on the starboard the keels this way you've got the main thread we have to cut so I'll show you that soon then there's another bolt that stops the transducer being at a rotate with transducers is really important that you get a clean flow of water over them and I've seen other types of transducers with this anti rotation bulb oddly is actually the front so you get a little bit of turbulence over this and then you actually get to the transducer so even just the little simple things have been thought out to make sure they get the best possible result another point worth mentioning is these are designed for a 20 degree dead rise on the hull so depending on the slope of your hull where the transducer is going you will need to buy different models you know if it's a flat bottomed skier for whatever you know depending on that slope it's all built into the transducer the transducer doesn't have a wedge mount or anything but knowing that rise that's built into the transducer you're buying is really important this is the template that Raymarine supply for installing the transducers or during the holes so what we need to do is with the bow this way drill a hole through a vault here that's an anti rotation bolt what I'm going to do is just take the measurement center the center of this plan mark it on drill it so it says it should be a hundred and forty two millimeters Center Center this hole here has a 31 millimeter radius so we can say then it's a hundred eleven each edge to Center have a look here so we got 600 from the keel yeah off your Center 600 to the keel so it can probably come down a little bit to make the transducers straight I'm just going to cite that from the front yeah that looks pretty good so 111 out 600 Akhil 602 the keel are also this gray you can see is a couple of coats of epoxy I put on yesterday to stop the fresh steel here from rusting alright eight mill drill bit yeah it looks fine if not we'll go up to an eight and a half okay now let's read the instructions here are the instructions for installing the transducers so these particular ones I think the RV real vision 3d and then I think the XX probably refers to the dead right in this case I have 20/20 degrees there's looks like there's zero for a flat bottom hole 12 and 20 don't quote me on that but I presume that's what this series is about alright now one of the first things they say in instructions here is to test the transducer there's a couple of reasons I'm not going to do the tests right now and that's because well I don't have power to start with and Tides miles out you know I could maybe stick them in a bucket whatever these things don't like to work out of the water I think they get quite hot so you know you'd need to have them in the water even if it is just dropped in some water to test them but they actually have a really low failure rating the reason for my understanding that you're asked to test them is because if by some you know one-in-a-million shot you get a dodgy one it's very tricky in murky water with warranty where you then go and launch the boat go look at the port side one's got a fault suddenly you're up for all the costs of reefs lipping the boat etc etc so it's really just saying look test them before you launch the boat again is really what they're saying I get that I think it's excellent advice but for me it's just not really that practical so I'm not we're skipping that bit yeah you know flame me whatever but I think it's a pretty safe bet given how reliable these transducers are okay on with the destructions so we found a location which is clear of any obstruction so we don't have something in front of the transducer producing turbulent water that will affect the readings the transducer will give us we want clean water flowing over the transducer this is our transducer cables only geylang and there is an extension to take it to the wheelhouse and a wire adapter to join the two sites because they're a match pair the first step is just pushing this through make sure you leave the cover on here because you've got sick of flex going everywhere dust and dirt it's really important this connector stays clean so don't take the cover off the connector definitely probably the most important thing is to make sure you got the right transducer so starboard side all these double checks telling you this way goes forward this way should be towards your keel and starboard side so you basically are three things to help you make sure you're in the right place and you have it in the right orientation then once your hundred percent sure peel these stickers off now I'm going to do is get a clean rag and find some alcohol and we're gonna give that a wipe to make sure it's clean for the sealant to stick just give the plastic bit of a cleanup and the whole the sealant I'm using for this job is Sikaflex 291 I've added this Sikaflex to the Amazon store a setup not something we're sponsored by or anything just a really good sealant for doing any sort of marine job honestly have used it for years and years and years and it's always been awesome so the instructions for this apply a thick bead of marine grade sealant the circumflex were using all around the base of the transducer stem where it'll meet the hull around the threaded section of the stem ensuring that the seal it will protrude approximately six millimeters above the final tighten whole nut all around the stem hole on the exterior of the hull and all around the anti-rotation bolt on the exterior the hull fair enough bead all around both of the holes through the hole same on the little aunty rotation bolt alright I'm just gonna do a bead around the bottom of the flange here and then it looks like it talks about coming up the thread so we're going to be winding the thread through you know around the sticker flex and using the Sikaflex as a kind of sealant and a bit of a lock tight I guess so I'll do that with two hands and then we'll push this up in there there's a little tap over the anti-rotation bolt so I'll just pop that off get the bolt in and just get it in its correct orientation before we get too far it's funny I'm really glad I measured from the keel because the transducer looks to be pointed up this way but then you go to the front of the boat and it looks really nicely aligned to the to the keel as the measurements confirm so let's jump inside and put that locking nut on so I'm just going to feed the rubber washer over the entry table and run it down onto the hull all right spacers push down now so that top face is against the rubber washer alright now we do is get the locking collar down the cable as well all right quite a bit of sticker flexes used out from all those joints I'm just gonna smooth it off with a finger well I certainly can't see it leaking that's for sure no right there's cleaner all right as you saw we had to take the stickers off put the betta sticker flex on all that was fine then what happens is once you're in you have a washer and a spacer I'll be easier to show you these out of the boat now it might be a bit clearer than it was inside there in the duct the washer is quite flexible and it's the bit that goes on first so it just gets fit down over the cable and onto the hull here which is onto a beam of Sikaflex as well then it actually says to put a bead of sticker flex on the bottom surface which is the flat surface not the open surface of the then your feed you space it down so you've got sick of flex in between every layer in between the transducer and the washer the washer and the spacer then you have the top now because they're nuts threaded obviously there's a very very minor risk of damaging the cable on the way down I'd put it at close to zero but there is a protector that goes inside clip that in so it goes in bottom of the nuts like this top of the nuts poking up then you can feed it down along your cable then when you get down to the point that you need to install the nut itself it overlaps washer pop it out because it comes out like this and it can actually push it on itself you can get it out at the last minute and then whine the nuts on and that's your kind of final installation personally I don't think there's a huge chance of the plastic nut damaging the cable on the way down in any meaningful way but what I do like about this is it sort of goes to show there's obviously a mindset of Raymarine that they're trying to think of absolutely everything can go wrong and when it comes to navigation gear I kind of like to know that's the way they're thinking so it does fill me with confidence even though I think in this particular case it's probably overkill but you know why not so that's the setup it went in I'm gonna do the same with this one really hard to film in there that it's crap there's rubbish everywhere and it's dark and well you know but same thing with the port side gonna peel the stickers off give it a clean Sikaflex on here feed it through go inside put the washer the spacer then the nut on when working with Sikaflex like this I'd almost recommend putting kind of quite a few pairs of gloves on if you can because you're always going to want to rip a layer off so you have clean airs to pick up whatever you're working with next another job I have to do before the boat goes back in the water is get the anodes on it I've already got a couple on the rudder which I've welded the head of the bolt onto it as a stainless rudder so I've weld the stainless bolt on to the rudder then I've drilled holes in the straps for the anodes put them on put nuts on so here I've got the head of the bolt welded onto the rudder I'll grab a second set of nuts so we got some lock nuts here just to make sure it doesn't come undone I'm gonna try a few different ways of attaching them to the keel see which way it goes best here what I've done is drilled a hole through and taken some of the paint off the steel here so it's still pretty clean steel then William is fill the hole and put some of this carbon grease which is a conductive grease behind the strap bolt it up tight and see how that goes all right a bit of this grease inside on the outside Sun turn back a bit more grease in here got the bolts cranked up pretty tight got an ad out on both sides bolted right through the keel and you can see here this is this black conductive carbon grease that's squeezing out so I'd probably call that the easiest way to attach but probably the least reliable in that the the connection between the anode and the hull isn't as positive as it is say with the welded heads third option then is to weld the strap of the anode straight to the hull these ones I actually drilled the holes in here these are designed just to be welded on so another way to go the disadvantage to that is that you can't easily change them underwater I guess my preferred method would be this one where you weld the head but I'm gonna compare how it goes I think what I'll do is I'll weld some bolts on down here and we'll do the the second set along here the same way is here so we'll be able to compare welded stainless bolted mild welded mail this section of the keel is a nice flat section where I want to put another anode so we're going to do is I need do these ones directly on to the hole because it's the flattest part so what I'll do is just mark the ends where I'm going to weld so I can grind the paint off grinder weld them on and then then I'll just touch up the steel with a bit of auntie foul again [Applause] little tip for you as well welding these on it's much better if you been these straps a little bit otherwise there's quite a gap between the straps and the keel but I'm willing to get on too which gives you quite a big gap to feel because the first bolt can go anywhere it's the second bolt that has to be the correct distance from the first one I've just been tacking the bolt on the first bolt just by holding it and out of interest this welder is earth through the hole going on to the head of the bolt that's bolted through with that conductive grease on it so obviously there's a reason a good connection because welding fine how long it stays that way is the real test though I've got the first bolt welded on I'll hang the anode off the front bolt and intact the back bolt on I've also just put a nut on the bolt to keep the inner itself away from the head that I'm trying to weld give myself some clearance so they're locking it on like that just makes it easier to tack weld alright once it's tacked on just take it off well without next time I do a boat and yes they probably will be next time believe it or not I definitely got a mouse it higher on the stands all right I'm going to put a bit of graphite grease on the threads hopefully the graphite grease will mean that corrosion doesn't put increased resistance and make it a bad connection all right now I'm just going to touch up the ante fail around the bolts under the stands all those kind of places that need either touching up or couldn't be reached before this is the areas that I welded inside and the paint off ended up putting four new gal bolts into the rudder here so I may as well just ante fell over the whole thing I don't see any reason not to with a nodes it's important that you don't paint over them the idea is that the zinc contacts the seawater a little bit of anti foul on the non contacting threads isn't going to hurt though there's enough Fanny felt left to go right round the waterline again so I'm just doing from the chine up again all the way around it's an area of heavy growth and also one of the more visible areas well that's it for this week now I think it was a pretty good week in some ways actually a short week it's only Wednesday afternoon now but tomorrow Hallie and I heading back up to coffs harbor to finally pick up his boat dil star 2 and bring it down the coast so I'll definitely do a video on that trip as I promised originally there isn't that much left to do on the boat now to get it floating in I'm really keen to get on the mooring few people commented they said it was a bad idea to get on the mooring rather than finishing on the hard stand but I disagree you know I think it's gonna be much nicer to work there contrary to what people might think I've actually thought about it I've got a plan I've got everything I need you know it's not just a spur-of-the-moment decision without anything to back it up so to that end I spoke to the crane company today it'll make you laugh if it doesn't it makes you cry but turns out that since I pulled the boat out of the water all the cranes now have been chipped and they're not allowed to come across the bridge to the south or to the north of this town so there's actually no way for a crane of that size to get to this boat anymore awesome hey turns out all I can really do is get two small frantic cranes that can cross the bridges one to lift the front one to lift the back and then somehow coordinate it means it's gonna have to go into the wall pretty close to the wall parallel to the wall won't be to reach out very far is what it is anyway so all I could do now is pick a date based on the tides give them the heads-up and I'll lock that in once that's locked in you know at least I'll have a date oh no I'm working too and we're talking two or three weeks away I'm actually going on holidays with my wife after I get back from coffs harbour so having a little break I've got some videos organised for that period though so I'll still be uploading but it won't be till after that the bow goes back in the order the list of things to do is pretty short I've got a propeller protector I want to put on I've got to organize something to do with the 3c so I need to figure out whether I'm going to put the old ones back in or go to a slightly smaller diameter newer style with a whole new arrangement I've got to finally get around to putting the legs on the stands that hold the boat up and after that I think we're pretty much done I'll put the stuffing for the stern Glen in as well and find a way to secure the prop without the engine in so that you know the holes watertight ready for launching but that's really the last few jobs to do before this thing can float again all right we'll take care and I'll catch you next week


  • Reply RAW KNUCKLES PROSPECTING July 24, 2019 at 1:05 pm

    I have a 4.1m fibregass boat. Can they be mounted to fibregass fishing boat's?

  • Reply DBay Boyds July 24, 2019 at 1:05 pm

    Heavy lift helicopter can cross the bridge πŸ˜‰

  • Reply bullsnutsoz July 24, 2019 at 1:05 pm

    That boat looks like the Little Toot built by Bernie Sullivan in Erina in the early 60s? What do all you blokes reckon about the satanist Marxist New world Order and all their stinking rules?

  • Reply bob n July 24, 2019 at 1:05 pm

    Very good video. Yes holiday with the wife. You’ve earned it. Hey the boat is looking really sharp. Enjoy!

  • Reply HATES PEACH July 24, 2019 at 1:05 pm

    That rudder looks better now…

  • Reply Ben Mac July 24, 2019 at 1:05 pm

    Personally I'd reccomend welding studs on to the hull for all anodes. And I think it is the atleast the preferred way if not the only acceptable way for commercial survey standards where I am.

  • Reply Ion Racer July 24, 2019 at 1:05 pm

    What do u mean the cranes were "chipped"??

  • Reply John Thorogood July 24, 2019 at 1:05 pm

    Hey, putting the boat on its swing mooring clearly saves cash…. the negative in my experience is you'll waste time traveling between ship and shore when you don't have that vital tool or part. Planning is key!

  • Reply MrCalifornia1234 July 24, 2019 at 1:05 pm

    Bought some parts from and said danger Stu sent me!πŸ‘πŸ‘

  • Reply Donald Goff July 24, 2019 at 1:05 pm

    Hope you have a great relaxing holiday!!!

  • Reply Man of War July 24, 2019 at 1:05 pm

    Any way to launch it with a Trailer ?? Im not sure what its like there but we can hire people here to bring a truck and trailer out . They load your boat off stands to a trailer . Carry ya to the water and put you in safely . Just saying

  • Reply Douglas Smith July 24, 2019 at 1:05 pm

    Is there some new gross weight limitation on the bridge ? North to South, South to North ? It sounds like a divided bridge ? Or two separate bridges side by side ? If the restriction is only on the North to South side, why not hire a couple of Coppers to hold the traffic on the South to North side until the crane can get across the side with no new restriction ? That's what we used to do years ago in The Florida Key's I'm sure the Cop's will glad to oblige for a few bucks. Unless I'm not understanding the statement you made about why the crane can't make it. I was a crane operator in my younger years, tower cranes, drag line's and mobile cranes up to 400 tons. Using two under size cranes to lift a load is very tricky and should not be attempted by anyone except the most seasoned operators. And they dammed well better be on the same page and have the proper spreader and rigger. If it's some other reason the bridge can't be used other than weight restriction, perhaps there is a way to get a temporary permit for a one time deal. It never hurts to ask. The worst outcome is for them to say "no". And you already have that, so you have nothing to loose. Good Luck man !

  • Reply Larson Timber July 24, 2019 at 1:05 pm

    Look forward to whatever you throw at us boss πŸ™‚

  • Reply Larson Timber July 24, 2019 at 1:05 pm

    That thing should turn on a dime stu especially with the keel cut out like it is, pretty cool might have to play with auto pilot to get her to track straight in the following sea but sure is nice for maneuvering keep up the good work stu πŸ™‚

  • Reply Lee Humes July 24, 2019 at 1:05 pm

    Would the authorities issue you a variance for the crane? 1. They left you stranded. 2. The bridge held up for as long as it held up until somebody had a better idea. 3. You only need it one time to get your boat in. 4. Their new regulation impacts you disproportionately. 5. You could lead a secessionist movement for Dangar Island. Good sailing on your coast run….

  • Reply Scott TheOzoneGuy July 24, 2019 at 1:05 pm

    Enjoy the time with your wife. She likely needs some attention too. 😁

  • Reply DAH3313 July 24, 2019 at 1:05 pm

    I havent seen you use any cold galvanizing spray primer anywhere as a anti-corrosion measure. I use it all the time for my dry-land welding projects. On a steel boat I would have thought it'd be ideal to use.

  • Reply Man of War July 24, 2019 at 1:05 pm

    WOW There is a million things that can go wrong with two small cranes !! Its not even my boat and i'm FLIPPING OUT !! NEED MORE ADULT BEVERAGES !! Good luck !! Cheers from Murrells Inlet SC..

  • Reply Ian williams July 24, 2019 at 1:05 pm

    G'Day Stu,,mate i live in Newcastle,,would it be worth it to get a crane from Newcastle,,couple of the mobs this way have some pretty big cranes,,not sure what sort of capacity your after,or radius you will need to reach water from where ya boat is,,
    Just a thought,,
    I mean 2 franners verse's one from newie,,

  • Reply Crowman July 24, 2019 at 1:05 pm

    Maybe that plastic protecter was to protect the threads from getting Sikaflex on it as you snake the nut over the cable. When you feed the cable through hull hole with Sikaflex smeared on it you're going to get some on the cable. Just a thought.

  • Reply Ted B July 24, 2019 at 1:05 pm

    Looked to me the welding was a little cool. I'll shut up now.

  • Reply britcom1 July 24, 2019 at 1:05 pm

    Another great video!

  • Reply Fred Quimby July 24, 2019 at 1:05 pm

    Dude…duuuuuuude…DUDE! Hire one of them big honking military helicopters to lift the boat and drop it out in the river or anywhere you want close by! Why mess with those dinky cranes and risk watching them and your awesome boat tumble off the dock and into the water and sink to Davey Jones' locker? Plus it would make for some great video.
    I mean…yes…the boat falling into the water with 2 cranes tumbling down on top of it would make for great video too but who wants to spend all that time re-applying anti-foul once you haul it back up onto the hard? Always gotta be thinking….. Always….

  • Reply Neville Kernke July 24, 2019 at 1:05 pm

    Stu just use a piece of pvc pipe over the shaft with an exhaust clamp on it . Just split the pvc down the middle it is easy to remove then I have done it a few times so I know it works. Like your videos mate cheers

  • Reply trvlnsldr July 24, 2019 at 1:05 pm

    Would a crane on a barge be a viable option?

  • Reply zetacon4 July 24, 2019 at 1:05 pm

    I am so excited! can't wait to see that rebuilt engine dropping into the boat and being locked down securely. The bottom looks so clean and prepared. It gives that warm secure feeling. Sorry about the crane issue. But, all will go well and soon water will be lapping against the hull once more.

  • Reply Kerry Green July 24, 2019 at 1:05 pm

    Enjoy your well deserved holiday my friend. Wish we all could come and give you a hand getting her in the water. I'm sure plenty of us would. Keep up the great work! Looking for Cooper's in my neck of the woods to try out. Cheers mate! ( They don't really say "Cheers mate" here in Tennessee. But my wife and I are globalizing our vocabulary 😁)..

  • Reply Stephen Rankin July 24, 2019 at 1:05 pm

    I suggest you take some strong meds the day those two cranes launch the boat
    Stu you’re an inspiration

  • Reply SouthJerseySound July 24, 2019 at 1:05 pm

    A few ideas for the crane issue, it might be cheaper to hire a barge crane or a barge for the previous one instead of the 2 smaller ones. Also it'd be a shame if someone pumped a ton of water over the bulkhead at low tide creating a little gulley in the muck. Or possibly some idiot could get stuck in there in their boat making a little channel from the prop wash πŸ˜‰

  • Reply Jim H. July 24, 2019 at 1:05 pm

    It was a mistake to refer to the instructions while installing the transducers. Instructions should only be consulted after completion of installation when the device doesn't work.

  • Reply Lenora P July 24, 2019 at 1:05 pm

    Galvanized under the water line…..NOOOOO!!!!!!

  • Reply Jerry forson July 24, 2019 at 1:05 pm

    I can’t wait to see the old girl floating!

  • Reply SouthJerseySound July 24, 2019 at 1:05 pm

    Balloons work great to cover the plug if you're like me and rip all the packaging off before thinking πŸ˜‰

  • Reply keen0515 July 24, 2019 at 1:05 pm

    Drill a hole in the boat. "Now let's read the instructions."

  • Reply Grumpy G July 24, 2019 at 1:05 pm

    Some good tips in there! Thanks for taking the time to educate us.

  • Reply the hammah July 24, 2019 at 1:05 pm

    Is there another video on the Detroit diesel rebuild?

  • Reply thomas savage July 24, 2019 at 1:05 pm

    Be nice to see the boat in the water, with no leaks. Great effort!

  • Reply Kansa City Shuffle July 24, 2019 at 1:05 pm

    Have you ever used the 3M 5000 or 5200 marine sealants? Just wondering how they compare.

  • Reply Tim's Workshop TJY July 24, 2019 at 1:05 pm

    Hi Stu, those transducers look awesome. Using two portable cranes to put the boat in should be interesting. Without the 1 ton engine should help and a high tide

  • Reply Neil M July 24, 2019 at 1:05 pm

    Distructions they indeed tend to be.

  • Reply DrLecter101 July 24, 2019 at 1:05 pm

    Stu, do you need some help down there? My work allows me off about 5 months off starting in November.

  • Reply steelshotproductions July 24, 2019 at 1:05 pm

    Once again I find myself fascinated AF by this and I don't even own a boat. Something very primal about watching things being built/repaired???

  • Reply Gilbert Franklin July 24, 2019 at 1:05 pm

    Hope we get to see a video of the two-crane work to launch – sounds spooky. I guess the only other alternative is wait for a tsunami, eh?

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