Hello Everyone, Welcome to the first episode of this training series that should accompany you through some of this winter. This year the coach is Romain Desgranges, and we wanted to do this in our way, a way you are already getting know through the “Simple Climbing” series. So you know the idea, it will have little embellishment, and mostly we will benefit from having Romain, who really is a training expert. Like he often says, he doesn’t consider himself to have any particular talent for climbing, so he needs to compensate for this with training. He will accompany me during a training session that we have separated in several episodes corresponding to different themes. This way we will try not to just give you a list of exercices to do, you will also see me doing them… generally badly, and Romain will be there to correct me, help me and set a good example because sometimes we think we are doing the exercice correctly and in reality, not at all. So, since we are with Romain, we went for a big, “muscle shattering” session, The type of session you’d do when you know you won’t be climbing for at least three days afterwards, I’d say But you can choose to do just one of the themes, for example during your session. In any case, it should be accessible to all levels because the idea is to reach the maximum of your ability, whatever it is. Even in this first episode on the campus board, we can adapt the level: It’s just that when Romain will jump 7 rungs in one go, we will jump much less high. But that’s not important if we go for our maximum each time. If you want to try doing the whole session at once, so when all the episodes are out, and doing all of them in one session, give yourself at least 15 minutes of rest between each area. But play the game, you will see that the idea is to get more and more tired, so don’t rest too much! Voilà! I hope you enjoy the video, but we are testing the idea so we are not completely sure of what we are doing. Let’s go. Happy training! Ok, to start off this big training session, we’re going to (and this might seem a little unusual), get tired already. This means that we’re going to be pushing while we’re still fresh, We’re going to show you how to do this well, and this happens on the campus board. [Campus Board] All good training starts with a good warm-up… so this game’s called “le coup de pute” [low blow], If you’re able to work out the rules, well done! So I imagine that you warm up before [using the campus board]? Yeah, yeah… the campus board is quite brutal, so you have to warm up your fingers and pulleys so you don’t hurt yourself. What exercises do you do? At the start I hang of it, using my feet, then just using my hands for a few seconds, then for longer, and then I make my grip smaller. After that some small movements to warm up the body. Is there something which says that you are warmed up? You quickly realise, when you manage to push hard, or when you begin to be really precise in your grip, that… you begin to be nice and awake. You see, there I missed it! Starting like this, one hand on #0, feet on the floor… you’re going to jump to #8. The idea is not just to do it using momentum, but to focus on this axis… which is going to pull, and also on the precision with which you arrive at #8. Focus on the left arm which guides… you use the momentum from the ground, but it’s the left arm that does this. There you go, you missed the arrival a bit. That made more noise that you did! Exactly, concentrate on your accuracy in getting there. So you can do that for as long as you feel that you are improving your movement… and can be really straight, really parallel to the campus board. I’m good when I can reach it silently? When you arrive with no speed at all, exactly at the hold. Not bad! Think about doing the other arm as well. Ok, afterwards you can do the next step… you do the same thing, but you bring up your lower arm. You’ll need to squeeze the shoulder that’s at the top. That’s how you do it well… Try to get there perfectly flat. Yes, much better! You need to know your body to know the power you need to use to go here It’s not the same as the one needed to go there so you need to go exactly there, and not the opposite where you go and at the last moment you adjust what you’re doing… On the campus board rungs, you need to be accurate, but even more on real holds [Johan] So this is part of the warming up session [Romain] Having a good body map allows you to have a good session afterwards [Part #1]
[THE ARMS] – [Johan] Are we warmed up?
– [Romain] Yes we are Let’s begin on the large rungs. The principle of the campus board is 1/ the arms and the upper torso and 2/ the fingers We’ll begin with the arms, with the good holds, so we don’t have to focus on the fingers we’ll just do basic ascents, while focusing in this part, biceps, shoulder, and all this part over here so we can force so when you begin, focus on this part… …this part of the arm. First the arm, then the shoulder You climb up like this, and gradually, still statically, try to do this, and then stop slightly in front of the hold, a small stop, hop, a new small stop, and you release the hold. Your turn! Stay focused on the right arm Try to stay accurate so the nails don’t hit anything Gradually, try to slightly stop in front of the hold Ah yes, I had forgotten this part… Er, a little more maybe? Are you trying to stop here or what? I think so? Actually, I need to block my arm in order to do this stop Yes, and to feel the movement, wind your pelvis on the holding arm that way you’ll feel it better to release the hand Yeah, better already! There, you are doing the movement in slow motion… …try to… … the idea is that, you’re here I stop in front of it and I grab the hold.You just need a very small blockage It’s the blockage here that is important to work on You begin here, you block a little, and you grab the hold. OK It’s not the movement in slow motion, it’s the movement, I block, I keep the hand in front of the hold, and then I grab the hold. I’m going down! F*, I’m not blocking, I’m going down! Ok, we’re going to try a level a little more… You do that, and, You just do, “hop”, “hop”, like that You just let go of the hand, “hop”, “hop”, “hop”, that way you will awaken the feeling of “blocking” of this angle, and that angle. – OK
– Climbing is about locking the articulations – [Johan] So, I need to go up a little
– [Romain] Exactly This is what you must try to do The idea is to concentrate on blocking the arm, and everything is focused on both those articulations Ok, so don’t panic if, like me, you can’t block straight away! The goal of this exercice is to be able to block, so it’s normal if you can’t do it at the beginning – Exactly!
– I’ll reassure myself that way! And we’re going to reassure you that way… To supplement the exercice: we just did it statically, the idea is now to do the opposite, to climb up as fast as possible, while being accurate with the hand. That way you’ll work on the accuracy of the “body map” and you’ll also work on your tightening speed, the speed at which you tighten a hold when you arrive on it. You see, if I exaggerate the movement, it’s really… It’s like that, the idea of giving your maximum. And, I wasn’t even that good there… Do it again? I missed the hold! You see… it was not a question of strength, it’s just that I didn’t aim the hold correctly So the issue is more on the technical and visualization side than on the energetic one. Yeah, better, go, go, go ! – Yeah!
– When I hit the nails, I feel it! We hear it No, I *feel* it! Now that we are warmed up, we combine the exercices You begin slowly, a small stop, slowly, a small stop, and then you climb as fast as possible You begin like that, then you accelerate Your turn! Do it again, I didn’t see properly! I need to rest a little – it’s important to have enough rest between efforts between 4 and 5 minutes What? This is absolutely not what we’ve been doing! Ok, now you explode, go go go! Yeah! Do you feel your biceps warming up? – 15 minutes rest!
– No we said 5/10 minutes [2nd Part]
[(Well, and the arms too)] Exercice #1598, already… You begin with your hands shifted, let’s say #0 and #1, like this, Then you try to go as high as possible. You can try multiple times to beat you own records, then you begin again with the other hand, and then you begin from rung #2, then from #3, then from #4, the first move will become more and more difficult to go over the shoulder however bringing back the other hand will be easier and easier First run we began with #1, now we try with a bigger gap. The more we progress in the exercice, the more difficult the first move will be to go over the shoulder. So now we try #2 That’s fun, you’ll see, when you hang, your legs twist instantly Try to use your abs to avoid this swing Your abs can hurt during a campus board session Yes, perfect, better! You pelvis is twisting, use your abs! My arms are beginning to be sore. Didn’t we say we stopped when we were at 95% of our strength? I think I’m around 96-97% The break is over Both your hands on #0 Then +1, +2, +3, +4, +5, +6, +7, to the death – OKKKK
– You good? We do that 2 or 3 times Do you remember what you need to do? Er… no. Ah yes, “tac tac tac tac tac to the death” [Romain] To the death Come on dude, breath, breath! Come on, that’s great! We forgot – shall we explain why we begin with this exercice? You work on your strength with the campus board when you’re fresh because when you’re at 100% from 100 to 95% of your capacities, then you really work on your strength if you begin to be a little tired, below those 95%, then you work more on endurance power, resistance and “conti” [continuing climbing even when tired] But not pure strength. When you work on your strength, you need to be fresh, and be ready to push it. You need to warm up correctly, start slowly, and increase the difficulty slowly. When you feel you’re not efficient anymore, that you begin to underperform and your level curve is decreasing, stop right away and do something else. – [Johan] This is how we know we need to stop
– [Romain] Exactly. Stay efficient! you need to have this picture of 100% of your strength, and 95% of your strength and generally you don’t stay at 100% very long… Come on, try to be accurate with your hand Come on, come on, again, again, again You’ll be able to hold it, come one! The question… …am I going to be able to do anything for the remainder of the session? Or are we going to see only Romain for the remainder of this training serie? You’ll see…next time!